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Topic: Building A Cable Cam (Read 2490 times)
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SpikeX
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Whilst browsing through this section of the forum, I found out just how easy it is to build a simple but effective cable cam. I know that it is a very effective and interesting way to get a shot of something, and I would have many uses for a cable cam (including R/C, MTB, Skiing, and other sports). I have designed my basic idea for the cable cam in a 3D CAD program, to better visualize what I want to do. Here are some screenshots:     Firstly, what do you think of the design? The table at the bottom will be used to mount an HD Camcorder. I don't know how steady the cam will be, but I guess I can always add weights where necessary to improve the situation. I don't want to use 2 cables because it would be too much hassle to set up. It's a very basic cable cam, but I have seen a very similar setup on YouTube which actually worked quite well. I want to make a cheap setup that works well, and that I can easy transport from place to place (sometimes from country to country). I don't know what to use for cable though. The whole thing will be 2kg max., so could I use fishing line or something similar? Also, how do I stop the cam at the end of the run? If I have to let it go at the beginning of the run, I can't be at the end of the run too.
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« Last Edit: December 22, 2007, 22:51:50 PM by SpikeX »
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Jeff_R_King
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A HD Camcorder flying through the air metres above the ground, you're either very rich or have a lot of faith in your system.  For starters I'd have a fail safe in case a wheel goes, cos if one goes the other will probably follow soon after, so a loop of rope going over the cable and firmly fastened to the rig. Also attach the camcorder into the loop in case its mount fails. Other things to consider are the sort of slope you plan to use it on? and how long will it be? I wouldn't think fishing line would be suitable, rope of some sort would probably be better, I'm looking at using climbing rope for my next one as its more springy and easier to tension. The longer the length the more tension you'll need so it doesn't sag in the middle. From what I know of skiing it will be a fair slope, think of what gravity will do to a 1-2kg weight on that slope, the only way of stopping it without complicate the design is to put jumpers and towels etc on the rope, so that it has to push in front of it that will add friction and gradually slow it down. Presumably you will be tying it onto trees?, you'll need to be sure it will stop in time, cos trees and camcorders don't get on well. Looking at your design it might take a while to get it balanced so its platform is level. If your camcorder records to HDD or DVD be aware that vibrations could cause write errors and disc errors or damage the camcorder. Make sure you are confident your camcorder will be safe, and that you are aware of the risks of damaging it, and can afford to replace it if it cos wrong.  Let us know how it goes.  Jeff
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Jeff_R_King
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Jumpers and towels a long the rope sounds like a good idea to slow the cam down. I will be using the cam on very slight slopes at first so I will have a chance to see how everything goes. Is there a failsafe system I can use if the jumpers and towels don't work?
The jumpers & towels should do the job, if they don't slow it down enough they act as padding on impact.  The only other thing I can think of, is to have a cord attracted to the rig that is a measured length and is attached to the top tree, you'd need bungee or something elastic what will gradually absorb the motion energy of the rig to slow it down when the rig reaches the end of the cord. My camcorder records onto DVD at the moment, but the HD one I want to get records either to HDD or to Flash Cards. HDD would be much better for general use because it lasts longer until it gets full. To prevent vibrations, could I maybe mount the pulleys and camcorder onto pieces of rubber?
Yeah rubber sounds like a good idea. Flash cards are less sensitive to vibration so use them if you can. For changing the angle, you could use a tripod head which screws into the base of the camcorder, however these aren't designed to take much in the way of impact forces, so you might end up snapping the head off, or damaging the camcorder casing where the screw goes in. If you can you'd be better off making some sort of board mount you can strap the camcorder down to and then have a way of angling and turning that. you need some way of regulating the speed of the camera, or if the rider is staying at one speed a way of stopping the camera before it smashes against the end of the line, a rope attached may be a good idea, but this may be in view of the camera and get tangled up with the rider below.
The other problem with this method is it could jerk camera around so the video didn't look very smooth, they don't take much to start swinging side to side.
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CallumSwift
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I looked at building a cable cam system similar to the one you are talking about, but cme across a lot of potential problems; the main one being that the camera is fixed pointing in one direction (which in itself is a challenge), but the nature o downhill means that the track will vary alot in gradient, even over a short period, so it is very difficult to keep the rider centered in the shot. As well s this adjusting the speed of the camera is very difficult to control Instead I have built one to take me and my camera. This avoids almost all of the problems associated with your design as you can control the direction and zoom of the camera thus keeping the rider centered at all times. Obviously there are logistical difficulties but my design works very well and was less expensive than you would think. Basically I have a 50m 10mm climbing rope, 2 ratchet straps to tension the rope, a pitzl tanem pulley, a harness, some carabiners, and a thin 50m additional line. The hardest part of the design is slowing yourself down. I ruled out any friction based system such as towel due to the extreme heat buid up and damage to the rope that it will cause. You can run another rope round the starting point and use a belay device to basically absail down the line, but that requires a 100m length of rope which is cumbersome. In the end I used the secondary line. This is thin and has a knot in it about 5m from the end. A pulley runs along this and is connected to me by 4 bungee chords. I start down the zip wire, if I get ahead of the rider I zoom in, the when the pulley on the additional line hits the knot it jams and the bungees slow me down over a distance of around 3 meters (to avoid whiplash!).
I will get some pictures up soon if you want, sorry abou the essay but I thought I might as well suggest a different design, plus its a lott more fun when your on it!
Callum
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