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Topic: Well thank you very much raceface... (Read 1554 times)
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Boykake
Senior
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Gender: 
Posts: 417
If youre not putting out, Im going riding
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Right... No offence is meant by this statement:
This appears to be beyond your skills and/or equipment level.. in which case take it to a local engineering firm! It will be out in 5minutes and wont cost you much..
No doubt they will just TIG a piece of bar on, and then use that to untighten it, helped by the heat!
Please note i said "engineering firm", do not confuse this with "bike shop" of any form!
This is a very common occurance in engineering (and mostly preventable on initial fitment!)
And a daft question... that picture shows writing saying "10mm allen key"... to check, you have tried uptightening that bit havent you?
I have a guy i know who can weld a bar on and hopefully shift it, but ill leave it till last, as he lives quite a bit away. You can say to just sod it and go there or find somewhere nearer but ill wait for now. No need to touch the 10mm part, its off the cranks. 8mm crankbolt is all that matters, i found that the 10mm cap is useless anyway as when the 8mm bolt is off the arm slides off. usually lol.. Oh and dont start about fitment, it was put on properly by myself, bb faced and straight and axle lubed with plenty of good quality grease, This was in january and i was taking the bike apart to regrease when i discovered the problem, dont imply im an incompetant mechanic. Piss off droid, no need to get arsey about it, youd be "whingeing" if it happened to you. Oh and thanks guys, you have all been a big help. Your clearly not a competent mechanic and an even less skilled engineer so stop with the abuse towards people who can actually undo an 8mm bolt without ruining it. It's nobodys fault bar your own so quit the abuse towards people offering you advice which you seem to just be ignoring. Heat up the crankarm and bolt and hope that the difference in expansion is enough to break the seal free on the job. You can either try this whilst using a Torx bit or, ideally, kill two birds with one stone and have a decent bit of stock welded to the bolt which you can use to loosen the bolt. The heat generated from the welding process will be sufficient to free the bolt. You did remove the 10mm auto-extractor fitting first I hope - If the crank arm is stuck to the axle thats a whole different problem but relying on the 8mm bolt to remove said arm isn't the best answer and might explain this situation. FWIW, soaking it in WD40 is about as much use as soaking it in spermicidal lubricant in engineering terms. Use plus gas or something with penetrative qualitys greater than that of a water melon for maximum results. Welding isn't a big job, steel welding requires no special set up or anything else, I can think of countless local shops which would weld something onto that bolt for free, whilst you wait.. You don't need to travel 100 miles and you don't need a welder. Turn up at your local engineering workshop and ask the man nicely.. Sorry to sound like I'm ranting - Edd gave you some good suggestions and his comment of asking whether it was fitted properly was perfectly reasonable - you rounded the bolt and the allen key. At what point did i say welding was a big job and required a special set up? all i said was i know a guy who can do it who i can trust and id rather use him than phoning up a random company. ok? and also the bolt and allen were perfectly fine, not rounded when the cranks were installed. The rounding happened whilst trying to remove them, resulting in twisting the allen key as well. ok so i might not be the best mechanic ever to exist on this planet but you might be, i dont know. christ. sometimes i dont know why i bother using forums with the amount of arsey replys. |
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Pages: 1 2 3 [4] 
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