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Topic: Kevlar bead weight saving (Read 472 times)
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cocodave
Newbie
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Posts: 10
SDH Rocks!
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Hey all. I have been accumulating 2nd hand components to build a new mountain bike since i swapped street MTB for BMX around one year ago. My aim was to once again have a bike suitable for some rough cross country trails and downhill, whatever that is classed as these days, as my old one had progressively turned into the street MTB that i had just sold.  Spec for questions: Brakes: Hope M4s, Goodridge cable and pads Gears: Shimano hyperglide cassette, random chain, shimano XT mech, shimano deore shifter I have just finished putting together a final build with all the parts i had. I had a quick ride to check what was and wasn't working and i have a few questions: 1/ I got my current tyres free with the wheels. They are around 90% worn down, and i would like to have a new pair before i ride the bike seriously. Could anyone recommend the best tyres for general offroad non-serious use? Is it worth looking second hand? 2/ I have bled both the brakes myself recently, and bought brand new pads. I bled using the same method, with what seemed to be the same success. However, one brake remains 'spongey' despite rebleeding, and the lever pulls right to the bar without biting the rotor hard enough. The oil is still topped up to the maximum level, so i have read up and suspect a 'system leak'. Could anyone explain the basics of what this is, and how i would investigate and fix it? Front brake performing well:  Rear brake performing badly:  3/ The chain fell off several times while switching gears. Would shortening my chain help this at all, as i did not adjust the length since i bought it, again 2nd hand. It would also occasionally shift one too many gears and skip occasionally. Have i made a mistake in setting the gears up, in which case should i just re-do the whole thing?  |
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« Last Edit: July 25, 2008, 12:51:55 PM by cocodave »
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cocodave
Newbie
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Posts: 10
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1. I would reccomend a pair of maxxis highrollers, in single ply, about 2.35 width. These would suit you're needs perfectly.
2. The brake may need bleeding, or the pads could be worn down.
3. You will need a chain device if you want to have a single ring at the front.
JJ
1. Thankyou. Any experience buying 2nd hand? 2. I would of thought that but i bought brand new pads and bled the brake this week at the same time as the the front brake, yet it still wont perform. 3. When i used to MTB i didnt always use this, yet i didnt have a problem? Is it necessary? |
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dodgey-jumper
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Just get to the bottom.... fast
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1. You'll be able to pick tyres like these up second hand no problem, they'll be loads in the classifieds on this forum. It is worth getting some with a good amount of tread left, tyres make one of the biggest differences in how a bike handles.
2. If you have recently replaced pads and bled it, it will need "bedding in". This is just the time it takes for the brake to achieve some bite. The only way to do this is to keep riding with it. Drag the brake down a large hill for instance, then just keep using it until it gets it's bite.
3. Technically, chain guides aren't necessary, however on bikes using a single front ring and gears out back, the chain will always be in danger of coming off due the extremes of the cassette, rough terrain etc. I feel this would be a very worthwhile investment if you plan on any Jumping / light downhill on the bike. If the chain is skipping, it could be worn, especially if it is being used with a new cassette.
JJ
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Glory - nearly done :
http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/2412169#top
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jivehoneyjive
Full Member
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Posts: 153
Fully paid up on the pleasure/pain balance.
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1. I'd recommend either Maxxis holy rollers or DMR moto diggers- both have a tread pattern that tends to result in drifts rather than outright loss of grip. 2. If its feeling spongy, it could be air introduced into the system via the diaphragm in the top cap... go to the hope website: http://www.hopetech.com/ to see their video on rolling the diaphragm into place- also, tie the lever as tight as possible to the bar overnight and then any air should rise into the reservoir- remove the topcap and top up fluid as necessary, followed by rolling the diaphragm into place as before. 3. Without a doubt you need to shorten your chain- with the chain on the largest sprocket, the derailleur should be stretched forward almost parallel with your chainstay. Also, you will need either a chain device or front derailleur, otherwise your chain will fall off regularly. |
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cocodave
Newbie
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Posts: 10
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Ok, that theory works for alot of the chain guides on the market, but lots of items are also advertised with a range of sizes: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=8303"34-46t" Am i right in thinking it would work for 32t, and if not you could file it down a little until the roller could rotate far enough around to work? |
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